The less than good news is Malai restaurant still faces some growing pains. Asian fusion can be catastrophic, but compared with Tom Tom, there is something less blasphemous about Malai.

Malai. 1407 T St., NW. Open from noon to 10 PM Sunday through Thursday; noon to 11 PM on Fridays and Saturdays. Malai has been serving aromatic, South Asian–inspired ice cream flavors like ginger root ...